It’s given that being in San Francisco means being constantly seeing its iconic places, and to no exception are the elegant Victorian houses they call the Painted Ladies. They are humbly structured along Steiner Street across from the green of Alamo Square. I’m even guilty of going there to sit on a wooden bench opposite the homes, intent on gazing at whichever architectural appreciation I can credit myself. In summary, landmarks must be visited! But regardless, those who reside just blocks away, or even at the bottom of the hill from Alamo Square, do not need to be subjected to the traffic and noise pollution brought on by big, hunky double-decker tour buses going in and out every day.
With a newly-passed city ordinance that now bans commercial (9 or more) tour buses in the 25-square-block area of the Painted Ladies, travelers have a new chance–and a new light– in which to see one of San Francisco’s most treasured neighborhoods. Coming from downtown Market Street, your next best transportation option besides foot is the MUNI bus line 21 Hayes. It goes up Market and turns off directly onto Hayes Street, slipping past the grandeur and protesters of City Hall/Civic Center.
Hayes Valley
If there’s time, possibly get off and stroll warm Hayes Valley (hop onto the next oncoming 21 every ten minutes!). Hayes is warm, hip and very welcoming, adorned with low Victorian homes and street-side businesses like Bibliohead Books and antique furnishings at the city’s original Zonal. At the center of Hayes Valley is the one thing that, given the warmth of this area, is forced upon you– dining al fresco. Off the Grid food trucks regularly break here at Patricia’s Green, and even when trucks aren’t there, take it over to Avedanos Meat Market for the main course and to Smitten Ice Cream afterwards. Both are permanent musts for this square of grass and palms that becomes a playground for children, a canvas for artists to erect their bronze masterpieces, and space for dogs to blissfully roam about and happily creep up to watch you savor your meal.
Divisadero Street
The other end of Alamo Square is a constant buzzing strip of local play on Divisadero Street. Eclectic reigns in this part of the Western Division area, found in Chile Pies, comic book shopping, and the be
st toast you’ll eat unlike anywhere else at The Mill. It’s an up and coming street– after all, “Divis” has just been rounded off in its prime with the second location of legendary San Francisco mom and pop Bi-Rite Market.
The options for tourists heading out to the city may have lost a quick convenience in the tour bus ban. But, for quick you get quick– a zoom straight to a static memory in seeing a famous beauty– and that’s it. You would never have known what beauty and excitement truly lies beyond the Square and its ladies. A city landmark is a must visit, but exploring the land that makes the spot means a visit entirely of your own memories and own experience.
PHOTO CREDS: Alamo Square: bugbog.com; Original Photos: Paris Kim.
